Guest column by Cliff Ellis
Recently my wife Carolyn and I traveled to Switzerland, our first non-basketball journey post-retirement, and our experience was nothing short of amazing.
While awesome is a word often used to describe unique events, for what we saw and lived for 10 days in this small country the size of Vermont and New Hampshire combined, there’s no word to adequately express our experience exploring six alluring Swiss villages neatly situated far from the bustling cities of Geneva or Zurich.
Strolling along well worn cobblestone streets, we were overwhelmed by the beauty of the majestic Alps and the peaceful and pristine presence of impressively vibrant flowers often in small garden plots, some on sloping hillsides, and others in colorful window boxes attached to iconic Swiss wooden chalets.
The first leg of our trip began in Frankfurt (FRA), a recommended airport for convenience to much of central Europe and one that often features best ticket pricing from the US. Securing our rental car, we began our journey. Driving in Switzerland is not a problem. Most rental vehicles are equipped with GPS, roads are well marked, the Swiss drive on the same side of the road as we, and if all else fails there’s always someone nearby to give directions, offer assistance, or suggest a good restaurant.
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I strongly recommend driving when touring Switzerland as this provides an opportunity to see and do things that other transportation options don’t allow. Having the advantage to stop in a small village for sightseeing, pastries or ice cream; for pulling off the road briefly to catch a breathtaking photo of a glacier or a glacier-fed lake; or just taking the time to soak-up the peacefulness of enchanted snowcap mountains; can only be accomplished, if traveling in your own vehicle.
One other suggestion is to plan your trip to Switzerland for mid-September to mid-October. During this period you’ll have sweatshirt weather in the mornings, may see some snowflakes at higher elevations, and will be able catch a cow parade at one of several villages welcoming herds back from pasturing in the Alps. If you go in late October, many hotels and businesses are closed in preparation for ski season.
So, now I present my six favorite places in the world, my six favorite Swiss villages.
Appenzell, population 6,000,provided our first look at the Alps and was our introduction to mountainous roads encumbered by switchbacks that are nothing less than civil engineering feats of formidable design.
The community itself is the political, economic, and cultural center of Appenzell Innerhoden, the smallest of 26 Swiss Cantons.
Most buildings in the business district and many residences outside are decorated with frescoes, as well as with window boxes generously overflowing with flowers that flourish in the accommodating environment. It was here that we were also introduced to Swiss cattle that are honored with ceremonial autumn parades when brought back from summer pasturing in the Alps.
Stein am Rhein, an hour drive from Appenzell, is a charming village with a population of 3,500 that on February 22, 1945 was erroneously bombed by US forces.
The Rhine River on which this hamlet rests on the Swiss side separates Germany from Switzerland. Sitting on a park bench along the river’s edge, we gazed across the Rhine to Germany and could see how easy it would be for a bombardier, thousands of feet in the air, to miss the narrow boundary between Germany and Switzerland.
Stein am Rhein is famous for its well-preserved old town featuring painted facades and half-timbered houses. Located here is the monastery of St Georgen, one of the best-preserved medieval monastery complexes built in the 3rd century AD.
Thun, our next stop, with a population of 44,000 is about 125 miles from Stein am Rhein.
Considered the gateway to the Bernese Highlands, our hotel was ideally located next to the village’s most famous landmark, the Thun Castle, built between 1180 and 1190.
European history is impressively incorporated into daily life and predates our American existence. The village is lined with cobblestone streets and features an attractive lakeside promenade. The food is amazing with great pasta, beef and fine wine from local vineyards.
Murren, a car-free village high in the Alps at the foot of the Scihilthorn peak, is reached only by train from the Lauterbrunner station, a 45-minute drive from Thun.
Perhaps the most beautiful place in the world, Murren, population 450, is a destination that shouts through angelic voices that this place could only have been created by the hand of our artistically talented God.
The village sits on a terrace 5,413 feet above the Lauterbrunnen Valley from which hang gliding is very popular.
Murren has been described as a quintessential Swiss Alpine town surrounded by stunning mountain peaks that include Elger, Jungrau and Monch. Some of our trip’s most breathtaking photos were taken here. It was from Murren that the filmmaker shot scenes for the James Bond movie On her Majesty’s Secret Service.
Gimmelwald, population 130, is a 25 minute steeply descending walk from Murren. This tiny village, well worth the stroll, shares all the beauty and splendor found in Murren.
It was here that I was called to a patio lounge chair outside a small mountain-side pub to simply sit, bask in the warm sunlight, and say to myself, “Wow, I could never have imagined that places like this existed.”
If you’re a Publix shopper, you might find Murren and Gimmelwald as a BOGO. Both are attainable from one stop high in the Alps.
Zermatt, another car-free Swiss village boasting a population of about 6,000, is nestled at the base of the famous Matterhorn, a mountain in the Alps that straddles Switzerland and Italy. To get to Zermatt it’s necessary to take a train from Tasch, just more than a two hour drive from Murren. The 20-minute train ride to Zermatt affords passengers unique views of chalets, mountain landscapes, and peeks of the Alps.
The Matterhorn is a must see legend on any Swiss itinerary, although getting to see its crooked, almost hooked summit, is not always possible because of cloudiness or other weather issues.
The first person to climb the Matterhorn, elevation 14,692 feet, was Edward Whymper in 1865. Since then, more 500 would be climbers have died trying.
Zermatt, with a year round population of about 6,000, is another fascinating village where the views are breathtaking. Near the upper end of the village is clustered a series of homes, sheds, and barns constructed from ancient timbers that makes one wonder how life must have been here long ago.
Psychologists note that experiences of awe and wonder have a positive impact on our mental and physical health. This trip to these Swiss villages was a wonderful gift.
Cliff Ellis retired in 2023 as the winningest active NCAA Div. I men’s coach following successful seasons at South Alabama, Clemson, Auburn, and Coastal Carolina. He and his wife Carolyn now spend time between homes in Florida and South Carolina enjoying grandchildren, traveling, and writing. His recently published book, “Life is a Dance,” is listed as a Best Seller on several literary charts.
