By Evelyn Kelly, PhD
Thud. Our boat’s motor abruptly stops in the middle of 1,000-foot-deep Lake Atitlán. We bob on the waves as the driver frantically tries to crank the engine. The towering volcano over Santiago had so entranced us that we hadn’t considered a problem. Soon, we’re on the move again, reflecting on our experiences in Guatemala, the Land of Eternal Spring.
A short flight from Miami brings us to Guatemala City, where a driver takes us 50 miles over bumpy roads to our destination—Antigua.
Antigua
At the end of wide cobblestone streets, we stop at the unimpressive Porta Hotel. But appearances deceive. We find a stunning courtyard with a vast swimming pool, hibiscus, oleander, and tropical plants. Scarlet macaws and toucans call throughout the day. Our rooms are spacious, even offering American television, a rarity in Central America.
Built in the 16th century and now a UNESCO World Heritage Site, Antigua is surrounded by three volcanoes and colonial architecture. It served as the Spanish capital until earthquakes forced its relocation to Guatemala City in 1776.
Our guide, Estuardo (“Stu”) leads us through ancient cathedrals, monastery ruins, and the former rulers’ palace. In the plaza, shoeshine boys eagerly offer to shine our sandals, showcasing their industrious spirit.
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Markets, Lakes, and Volcanoes
Leaving Antigua, we enter the indigenous highlands, known for coffee and corn. The landscape is dotted with the blackened cones of 30 volcanoes, some still smoking. This is a country shaped by seismic activity—an earthquake in 1976 killed 23,000 people.
Here, people live in small houses with tin roofs. Stu explains, “These roofs are a problem. They cook and heat with open fire, and without chimneys, smoke fills the home. The leading cause of illness, especially among children, is respiratory disease.”
Stu describes the priorities of the male farmers: (1) their land, (2) their pickup trucks, (3) gold in their teeth, and (4) their children’s education. Indeed, nearly every local in the market displays gold fillings.
“The people are poor,” Stu says, “but they are not miserable. There’s a difference.”
In Chichicastenango, a town famous for its vibrant markets and festivals, we encounter colorful tapestries and handicrafts. We’ve seen aggressive vendors in many countries, but here, young girls tug at our hearts. “Please buy from me,” they plead. “I made these myself.” Unable to ignore or bargain well, I purchase ten, stopping only when I remember my suitcase’s limitations.
Guatemala City
The Spaniards who settled in Guatemala intermarried with the indigenous population, forging a unique society. Driving through Guatemala City, we pass high-end, gated communities that contrast sharply with the tin-covered homes in the countryside. While social customs lean European, the influx of people seeking a better life often leads to more poverty and crime, influenced by gangs from other Central American nations.
Stu believes change is slow. “Real change in Guatemala is one to two generations away.” Yet, we see a country with breathtaking landscapes, Mayan ruins, and Spanish colonial treasures—a place full of potential.
Evelyn Kelly is co-author of “Have a Love Affair with Travel: Your Ticket to an Exhilarating Life.”
