By Evelyn Kelly, PhD
Ole Man River
He jus’ keeps rollin’ along
These words capture the spirit of the Mississippi River—ancient, ever-flowing, and full of stories. Imagine a time with no cell phones, radio, or television, where the highlight of the year was the arrival of a showboat. You’d sell eggs to buy a ticket and marvel at the music, dancing, and grandly painted backdrops of faraway places.
A river cruise is an excellent way to explore history, as most towns developed along waterways. The Mississippi has always been a lifeline, shaping the culture and economy of the South and offering a fascinating blend of culture, politics, and folklore. Our show-boat journey took us on a cruise from New Orleans to Vicksburg, tracing the path of history along this mighty river.
Bridges and Huey P. Long
As we sailed, we passed under numerous bridges, each with a story. One of the most fascinating was the Huey P. Long Bridge in New Orleans, named after Louisiana’s infamous governor. Long, assassinated in 1935, was a divisive figure—hated by the powerful but adored by the poor. The bridge, completed the year of his death, was the first to span the Mississippi in Louisiana, transforming commerce by allowing goods to move by rail and truck instead of barges.
Related: Armchair Adventures: Beautiful Savannah
Plantation Mansions Along the River
When people think of the old South, they often picture grand antebellum mansions. While these homes belonged to wealthy planters—many from the North—they represented only a small fraction of society. About 3% of the population owned large plantations, relying heavily on enslaved labor. The middle class, consisting of yeoman farmers, merchants, and professionals, played a significant role in the economy, often without owning slaves.
Many of these neoclassical mansions, with their towering columns and symmetrical designs, have been restored and now serve as bed-and-breakfasts or wedding venues. Natchez, Mississippi, boasts some of the best-preserved homes, thanks to an unusual agreement during the Civil War. Unlike Vicksburg, which endured a brutal 47-day siege, Natchez surrendered without resistance, sparing it from destruction.
The Siege of Vicksburg
Vicksburg’s history is marked by resilience. During the Union siege, civilians took refuge in caves dug into limestone bluffs, creating makeshift homes complete with kitchens and living spaces. These caves provided shelter but came with an unwelcome consequence—snakes. The townspeople learned to emerge only during meal breaks when the Union soldiers momentarily ceased fire. Today, these caves have collapsed, leaving only stories of the city’s endurance.
Baton Rouge: A Capital of Controversy
Louisiana’s capital Baton Rouge has a rich history of political drama, largely thanks to Huey P. Long. A master of backroom deals, Long championed infrastructure projects, free schoolbooks, and healthcare for the poor, but his heavy-handed tactics earned him many enemies. His legacy is evident in the towering modern capitol building and his statue standing defiantly before the old Neo-Gothic capitol, now a museum. A later governor, Jimmie Davis, added a musical touch to the state’s heritage by writing “You Are My Sunshine.”
Like the river itself, history keeps rolling on.
With her daughter Natalie, Evelyn Kelly is co-author book “Have a Love Affair with Travel: Your Ticket to an Exhilarating Life.”
