Mysterious Nepal: Healers in the Himalaya

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temple in Kathmandu

By Evelyn Kelly PhD 

The crowded marketplace in Kathmandu pulses with life—aromas swirl from pungent spices, sweet incense, and the ever-present haze of vehicle exhaust. Around us, locals push massive bells in rhythmic prayer, their hands reverent and practiced. We are in the heart of Nepal’s capital—mysterious, ancient, and deeply spiritual. 

Masks in Kathmandu, Nepal

Watching the Healer in Nepal 

Our guide, Kumar, announces that we’re in luck: the healer is here today. We follow the crowd to an open area where people wait patiently beside concrete bed-like slabs. Each carries the weight of a different ailment. 

The healer—Dhami Jhankri—is clad in a long, tattered coat with bulging pockets. Before us, a young man reclines on one of the slabs, suffering from severe headaches, Kumar explains. The healer moves methodically, passing an object over the man’s head. He murmurs prayers and calls out to unseen spirits. A sharp snap of his fingers breaks the air. The young man jolts upright, eyes wide, claiming he’s seen a great light. He pays quietly as the healer turns his attention to the next patient—a man leaning on a wooden stick. 

Over the Himalayas 

The next morning begins before dawn. At 6:00 am, we head to the airport for a rare kind of adventure—a flight above the Himalayas. 

Our small aircraft, proudly marked “Buddha Air,” waits on the tarmac. Inside, there is only one seat on each side of the aisle—everyone is promised a window view. As we take off from Kathmandu’s tightly guarded airport, the plane’s engine roars to life and we lift into the thin morning sky. 

If there was ever a true “close encounter of a mountain kind,” this is it. 

Nepal is home to most of the world’s highest peaks—eight out of the ten tallest. Our flight weaves through glittering summits, tracing ridgelines and soaring above jagged spines of ice. At times, the mountains seem just an arm’s length away. We feel a sudden jolt—turbulent winds at this altitude are no joke—and grip our seats a little tighter. Still, the views are unlike anything we’ve ever seen: crystalline lakes, ancient glaciers, and finally, the unmistakable silhouette of Mount Everest. Towering. Majestic. Breathtaking. 

Mount Everest, Nepal
Mount Everest from a plane, image courtesy of Jerry and Pixabay

We are above the clouds, face to face with the roof of the world. It’s a powerful and humbling perspective—small humans adrift in the presence of giants. 

The hour passes quickly—but not without tension. The engine sputters briefly, and I’m pretty sure my daughter Natalie is praying. Whatever she said, it worked. We land safely, hearts full and grateful. To commemorate the experience, we’re handed t-shirts that read: “I flew over the Himalayas on Buddha Air.” 

Indeed, we did. And what a flight it was. 

Related: Armchair Adventures in Cambodia: A Gentle People 

An Unforgettable Adventure 

Not everyone dreams of climbing mountains—but soaring above them? That’s an unforgettable adventure. A scenic flight over the Himalayas offers a thrilling alternative to trekking and provides a front-row seat to some of Earth’s most awe-inspiring beauty. 

Evelyn Kelly and Natalie Kelly are co-authors of the best-selling book, “Have a Love Affair with Travel: Your Ticket to an Exhilarating Life,” available on Amazon.